Ulcinj doesn’t get much attention. Most travelers passing through Montenegro don’t make it this far south, and those who do are often just using it as a stopping point on the way to Albania. Which is honestly a shame, because Ulcinj is a charming city, full of legends and pirate history that sets it apart from anywhere else on the Montenegrin coast. It’s also on the UNESCO World Heritage tentative list.
We came from Sutomore by bus, spent two nights, and continued on to Shkodër in Albania. So we had one full day in the town plus more time for the beaches. We left with a much warmer impression of Ulcinj than expected going in.
If you are making your way down the coast, do not just treat Ulcinj as a transit point. Spend at least a day here, you won’t regret it. Here’s things to do in Ulcinj in one day, plus practical tips on when to visit, how to get there and where to stay.
- What to See in Ulcinj: 1-Day Itinerary
- Ulcinj’s Beaches
- The Old Town and Castle
- The Cervantes Connection
- The Promenade and Cafes
- When to Visit Ulcinj
- How Long Do You Need in Ulcinj?
- How to Get to Ulcinj
- By Bus from the Montenegrin Coast
- Getting From Albania to Ulcinj
- Where to Stay in Ulcinj
- Where to Next from Ulcinj
What to See in Ulcinj: 1-Day Itinerary
Start your morning by going to the beach of your choice, before the heat sets in. Then you can continue with exploring the old town, where you will have a little more shade.
Ulcinj’s Beaches
Ulcinj has a number of gorgeous beaches. I recommend Liman beaches for their great views or Velika Plaza for the space, but you can choose whichever is close to your hotel.
Velika Plaža (Long Beach) is the one that stretches for several kilometers just south of the Ulcinj center and is one of the longest beaches in the Adriatic. Its scale also makes it slightly less crowded than the more central beaches.
Ada Bojana is an island right near the Albanian border with beautiful sandy beaches and a very relaxed, off-the-beaten-track feel. There’s a nude beach, as well as a non-nude part. While we didn’t make it there, it looks beautiful, if you have more time.
Valdanos Beach sits in a bay surrounded by ancient olive groves. Interestingly, this is the bay where pirates historically hid their ships.
Ladies Beach holds the distinction of being the first women-only nude beach in Europe. It sits between the Small Beach and Long Beach, nestled next to a pine forest. Worth knowing about even if it’s not your thing.
The Old Town and Castle
How to get to the old town: Ulcinj is hilly, so getting between the beaches and the old town may require a taxi or some uphill walking.
The cute old town is the heart of Ulcinj. It sits on a rocky cliff above the sea, and its atmosphere is quite unlike anywhere else in Montenegro, with a feel that reflects the city’s proximity to Albania and its long Ottoman history.
The castle at the top of the old town was originally built by the ancient Greeks, probably around the 5th century BC. It subsequently passed through the hands of Romans, Byzantines, Venetians, Ottomans and others -the usual Montenegrin history. Inside the old town walls you will find narrow cobblestone streets, ruined churches, a mosque, and a clock tower. The streets are lovely to wander around. Notice the cute windows and tiny balconies, partly ruined alleys and other small details.
As we had two evenings in Ulcinj, on one evening we watched the sunset from the Liman area, with the view of the old town. The second evening we witnessed it from the castle area. I am not sure which of these sunsets was more beautiful, but they definitely were one of the highlights. If you have only one evening, I would have a hard time suggesting one over the other, so do whichever is more convenient. Either way, the light on the sea from these elevated locations is something else.
The Pasha Mosque at the entrance to the old city from the main road is also worth pausing at. It dates to the 19th century and is a typical Ottoman architecture.
The Museum of Local History (price: 2.5 EUR) is fascinating for its building. It’s a 16th century church, which was then transformed into a mosque during the Ottoman rule. It houses archaeological findings depicting the life of the city starting from the 5th century. Even if you don’t visit the museum for the artifacts, you should see the building.
The Cervantes Connection
According to local legend the young Cervantes was captured at the age of 24 during a naval battle and held captive in Ulcinj by local pirates for around five years. The captivity was quite strange – he was apparently allowed to walk freely around the town. While in Ulcinj, he fell in love with a local woman and was inspired to create the famous Dulcinea. Even the name Dulcinea derives from “de Ulicini,” meaning from Ulcinj.
Spanish historians dispute the whole story and say there is no evidence for it. But we decided this story is lovely and gives Ulcinj the mystery you won’t find anywhere else in Montenegro. So let’s be Don Quixotes about it and imagine the windmills, even if it’s not true.
You can even visit Cervantes statue in the old town, one of the more unexpected things you’ll find in a small Montenegrin coastal city.
The Promenade and Cafes
Outside the old town, the promenade runs along the small beachside area and is a lovely place to spend an evening. By nightfall it fills up with locals and visitors alike, and the cafes along the waterfront become very busy. The views out to sea from here are beautiful, and the atmosphere is relaxed.
We sat at one of the cafes – café Timoni – and enjoyed the view, even if the food was not particularly memorable. The vibe more than made up for it.
When to Visit Ulcinj
We visited in September as part of a longer Balkans trip, and as with the rest of the coast, the timing was ideal. The summer heat had eased, the city was calm, and the old town was pleasantly uncrowded.
Ulcinj is a beach destination for many visitors, particularly those from the region, so July and August bring considerably more people. So if you prefer a quieter visit, aim for late September to October or late spring. This timing can be hit or miss for the sea though, as it may be cold.
How Long Do You Need in Ulcinj?
One full day is the right amount of time to see the city itself comfortably. In a single day you can explore the old town, visit the castle, walk the promenade, and see the Liman beaches and the cool views of the town. We used our one full day in Ulcinj to do exactly that before continuing to Albania.
If you want to spend time at the longer beaches like Velika Plaža or venture out to Ada Bojana Island, you would need an additional day or two. We did check out the Velika beach on our first late afternoon there. But for the town itself, one day is enough.
How to Get to Ulcinj
By Bus from the Montenegrin Coast
We arrived by bus from Sutomore, which was straightforward. Ulcinj is the last major town on the Montenegrin coast before the Albanian border, so buses run here from Bar, Sutomore, Budva, and other coastal towns, as well as from Podgorica. As with all bus travel in Montenegro, schedules are approximate. Just show up at the bus stop and hop on the next one heading south.
One important thing to know: the bus station in Ulcinj is not close to the city center. It is about a 30-minute walk, which is manageable without luggage but not ideal if you are arriving with bags. We took a taxi, which we don’t love doing, but it was the practical choice. Keep this in mind when planning your arrival..
See my dedicated article for more information on how to get around Montenegro by public transport.
Getting From Albania to Ulcinj
We took the shared taxi from the bus station, which worked fine. Compared to minibuses, the border crossing was faster with a smaller vehicle than a full bus. From Shkodër, minibuses to Tirana run regularly and are easy to find.
Where to Stay in Ulcinj
Ulcinj has a good range of accommodation, from apartments and guesthouses to small hotels. Given that the town is compact and walkable, you don’t need to be right in the old town to have easy access to everything.
You can choose an accommodation with direct access to the beach or stay in the old town area, depending on your preference.
Velika Plaza: Another common location is near Velika Plaza beach. There are resorts, like a very popular all-inclusive Azul Beach Resort or a more affordable AM Palace.
Old town: If you are planning to stay in the old town proper, hotel options are limited, so you will have to find serviced apartments, like Villa Marinero for instance.
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Where to Next from Ulcinj
If you are heading south, Albania awaits. Shkodër is the first major stop, with Tirana easily reachable from there. Shkodër deserves at least a couple of hours, before continuing to Tirana.
If you are heading back north along the coast, Bar is the nearest stop and its beautiful old town with the mountain backdrop is definitely worth a day trip.
Further north along the coast, you can visit my favorite Montenegrin city, Budva and continue on to the most popular Kotor.
For something different, Lake Skadar is also an easy detour nearby, especially if you want a break from the coast.
