Registan is one of the most iconic historical landmarks in Uzbekistan and the highlight of most visits to Samarkand. Historically, it was the main public square of the city during the Timurid period. The word Registan translates from Uzbek as “sandy place.”
The square served as a center for trade, ceremonies, and public gatherings. All major roads led to this lively place. During the 18th and 19th centuries the Registan complex, like much of Samarkand, fell into decline. Major restoration work was carried out during the Soviet period to repair the site. Today, Registan remains the most recognizable symbol of Samarkand and one of the most impressive architectural complexes in Central Asia.
This complex should definitely be on any Samarkand itinerary. You can see my recommended 2-day itinerary here.
Below are practical tips to help you enjoy visiting Registan Square.
- Practical Information for Visiting Registan in Samarkand
- Registan Tickets and Entrance Fee
- Registan Opening Hours
- What to Wear When Visiting Registan
- How Much Time Do You Need to Visit Registan
- Where to Stay Near Registan
- What to See at Registan in Samarkand: The Three Madrasas
- Ulug Beg Madrasa
- Sher-Dor Madrasa
- Tilya Kori Madrasa
- Tips for Seeing the Light Show at Registan
Practical Information for Visiting Registan in Samarkand
Registan Tickets and Entrance Fee
Ticket price: 100,000 UZS.
Buying tickets is easy. The ticket booth is located on the left side when you face the square, next to the Ulug Beg Madrasa.
Registan Opening Hours
Summer opening hours: 8am-7pm.
November to March: 9am-5pm.
During these hours you can enter the madrasas and explore the complex. Outside of opening hours you can still view the square without entering it.
Registan Square is stunning at any time of day, but the light is particularly beautiful around sunset (and sunrise). Some photographers show up before the opening hours to capture the square in the early morning light. I also recommend visiting in the evening when the buildings are lit up, even if you skip the light show.
Some travelers claim that paying an additional “fee” to the guards will allow you to enter before opening hours to avoid the crowds. I cannot confirm how accurate this information is, and personally I would not recommend trying it.
What to Wear When Visiting Registan
Uzbekistan does not have a strict dress code for visitors. However, outside Tashkent I would suggest wearing more conservative clothes with shoulders and knees covered.
How Much Time Do You Need to Visit Registan
Registan is a large complex with three madrasas surrounding the square. Originally they served as Islamic educational institutions. Today they function partly as museums and partly as small shops selling Uzbek embroidery, handicrafts, and souvenirs.
To explore the square, visit the museums, browse the shops, and climb a minaret, allow at least 3 hours. We spent quite a lot of time here exploring every corner. Although if you are short on time, you can see the highlights even in an hour.
Where to Stay Near Registan
Given that Registan is in the heart of Samarkand, choosing accommodation within walking distance from it is the best option.
We stayed at Muzaffar Hotel Samarkand, which turned out to be a great value for money. The hotel is located just a short walk from Registan. It was very clean, and the staff were friendly and helpful throughout our stay. There is also tea and coffee available in the kitchen whenever you need it. At one point they even helped us arrange a taxi and negotiated the price for us, which was very convenient. Overall, I would definitely recommend staying here.
If you prefer something a bit more upscale very close to Registan, Hotel Samaria Terrace is another good option.
What to See at Registan in Samarkand: The Three Madrasas
The Registan complex is formed by three monumental madrasas surrounding the square, each built during a different period.
Ulug Beg Madrasa
The Ulug Beg Madrasa is the oldest madrasa in Samarkand. It stands on the left side when facing the square. It was constructed during 1417-1420 by Ulug Beg, the grandson of Timur and a renowned astronomer. He invited scholars from around the region. Students (only boys) learned theology, astronomy, philosophy, and mathematics. Ulug Beg himself taught astronomy at the madrasa.
Nowadays, among other things, the madrasa houses a small museum, part of which is dedicated to astronomy. There is also the photo of Ulug Beg.
The staircase of the minaret is very narrow, so only two people are allowed inside at a time. We didn’t have to wait long for the previous people to come down, meanwhile we took a lot of photos. However, when we were upstairs, they allowed another couple to climb, which was not supposed to happen. It was extremely complicated to somehow pass these people for us to go down. So make sure there is no one there when you start climbing and insist that they don’t let anyone up, until you go down. That is the rule and they should stick to it.
Sher-Dor Madrasa
Opposite Ulug Beg Madrasa stands Sher-Dor Madrasa. The word Sher means “tiger.” If you look up, above the entrance you can see two tigers carrying suns on their backs. The madrasa was completed in 1636, about two centuries after Ulug Beg Madrasa.
Interestingly, according to the plan of Yalangtush Bahadur – the then ruler of the city, Sher-Dor was going to be designed to mirror Ulug Beg Madrasa, including the same height. However, over two centuries the Ulug Beg Madrasa had sunk into the ground. As the architect didn’t take this fact into account, the new Madrasa ended up slightly taller than its counterpart.
You could climb to the roof of this madrasa by asking the shop owners or the guards and paying a “fee”. This area is not officially open to visitors though, so proceed carefully. How much you pay depends on your haggling skills. We did this, the staircase was partly ruined, so be careful while climbing. Having done it I wouldn’t particularly recommend it, as the views are quite similar to those from the Ulug Beg minaret and you can climb that one officially without any haggling.
Tilya Kori Madrasa
The Tilya Kori Madrasa (the one in the middle) is impressive. Its construction was also ordered by Yalangtush Bahadur in 1646 and was completed in 1660. It is well-known for its gilded golden interior with stunningly decorated tiles.
Tips for Seeing the Light Show at Registan
If you are lucky enough to be in Samarkand on the right evening, the light show is a beautiful way to experience Registan after dark. I read about it before going, but I had no idea about the details, as there were almost no sources (either English or Russian) giving any more information about it, other than that it happens occasionally and is beautiful.
The light shows cost 2000 USD. So if a rich tourist or a tour group pays this fee, then the show is organized. So the show happens on the evenings, whenever someone pays for it. If you, like us, want to view it for free, you should inquire, if the show is planned any evening during your visit.
The Light show is usually organized in the evenings – approximate timing can be 8-9. It lasts about 20 minutes. At the ticket office you may find out the date and the approximate time of the planned show, however, don’t rely on them, as they may not know it.
When we visited the Registan on the first day of our visit, we inquired at the ticket office, if the show was planned any time soon. The guy was quite reluctant to answer. However, as I spoke Russian it was easier to make him tell me that he thought it would probably be the next day. He didn’t know the time and said it would probably be after dark at about 8pm. We were very happy. As I guessed from this exchange the people at the ticket office also don’t have exact information about the light show.
The next day, at 7.30 pm we were already at the Square. We saw chairs lined up. At about 8pm, the guards asked us to move farther from the Square. It’s best to stand at the railings.
We waited for quite a while. Several tour groups (who I believe have split the cost) arrived. The show itself started at about 9pm. But it was definitely worth the wait.
The idea of the show is to give the overview of the history of Samarkand. The story was somewhat confusing. We were surprised that it started with ancient history and covered different civilizations, including Egypt and Rome before getting to Uzbek history and Samarkand. But we didn’t mind, because it was gorgeous, whatever the story behind it. So just enjoy the show.
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