Visit the Amazing Kathmandu Valley:
Tips and Itineraries

Why Visit Kathmandu Valley

Kathmandu Valley is the heart of Nepal. The area has been inhabited since as early as 3rd century BC. The valley became prosperous since 5th century AD, however its peak was during 15th-18th centuries AD.

Kathmandu Valley is listed, as a UNESCO World Heritage site with 7 groups of monuments: 

• The Durbar Squares of Kathmandu;
• Patan;
• Bhaktapur;
• Pashupatinath;
• Changunarayan;
• Swayambhunath;
• Boudhanath.

The 2015 earthquake affected Nepal’s Kathmandu Valley significantly. It damaged many amazing structures, including parts of the Kathmandu Darbar Square, Patan Darbar Square, as well as Boudnadath, etc. The earthquake had significant affects on Nepalese people and the economy, which didn’t recover from it. Some World Heritage Sites were restored to their original state, others may not be possible to fully recover. If you open Tripadvisor, you will see a number of negative reviews with people complaining about reconstruction and not being able to take cute photos without scaffolds in them. Please, don’t listen to these reviews and do visit. 

We visited all 7 groups of monuments during our trip. The itineraries I suggest are more oriented towards cultural visit, rather than hiking. When I was planning our travel Nepal, my main focus was culture, as we aren’t avid hikers, although we love mountains.

If you are visiting Nepal for a cultural trip but still want to experience its gorgeous mountain landscape, this panoramic flight is definitely for you. 

Below itinerary suggestions include all of the UNESCO World Heritage Sites in the Kathmandu Valley. You can find the list of entrance fees on this official website.

When to Visit Kathmandu

There are two major high seasons in Kathmandu – late Autumn and early Spring:

• In Autumn – October-November – the temperatures in Kathmandu are generally mild. Days are warm and comfortable, while nights can be chilly. We visited in November and managed to explore the valley without rains. This period is also best for hiking in the mountains, as visibility is best. That said, we were not very lucky with visibility, days were hazy at times. 
• In Spring – March-April – temperatures are similarly mild, as in Autumn. This is also a festival season, as well as the blossoming season.
• Summer starting from May till September is rainy and hot. While it’s still possible to visit, it would be quite uncomfortable.
• Winters are cold, especially at night. Although if you like cold, the skies are clear and you can avoid crowds.

How Long to Spend in Kathmandu

Are you interested in cultural sites of the city? If so I recommend at least 4-5 days to explore UNESCO sites, walk around the different neighbourhoods and get to know the Hindu and Buddhist culture and architecture in the Kathmandu Valley. 

That said, if you are visiting Nepal for the hikes, then like most people you can spend a day or 2 in Kathmandu and then venture to mountainous areas. 

How to Get around in Kathmandu

Public Transport in Kathmandu

Getting around Kathmandu is not an easy task. To be honest, what we saw is that there is no public transport to speak of in Kathmandu. I am from Georgia and very familiar with bad public transport, such as mini buses, but Nepal is another level.

The overcrowded buses or minibuses normally run from Kathmandu Ratna Park. There are a number of buses and minibuses inside Kathmandu, as well as from Kathmandu to Bhaktapur, Patan, Kirtipur, Nagarkot, etc. We wanted to take them a couple of times, but it simply was an impossible task. I would never venture to get on. Once any bus shows up, people run to it and fit in as much as they manage.

Besides, bus signs are in Nepali, so you will have to ask locals to help you with finding the right bus.

So, even though we always try to take public transport everywhere we go, Kathmandu valley was one of the rare exceptions, as it simply wasn’t an option. As a result, around Kathmandu valley we were either walking or taking taxis.

This limited public transport is the main reason for numerous motorcycles: People just don’t have another option. You will see the whole families on one motorcycle.

As a result of all this, traffic in Kathmandu Valley is crazy. Hardly anyone ever follows any traffic rules, so be always aware of your surroundings, while walking on the narrow roads or crossing a street. 

There are sidewalks in central areas of Kathmandu, but the side roads and outskirts have none. You will basically be walking on the car road. be vigilant at all times. 

Taxis in Kathmandu

With public transport inefficient to almost non existent, your best bet would be to get a taxi. Hailing taxis is expensive, especially if you are taking them from Thamel. When they see you are a tourist, they ask increased prices.

instead of hailing, you can opt for other options:

• Use the taxi app: if you have internet that would be the easiest option. Most popular taxi app nowadays are Pathao and InDrive. But there are also other apps, like Sarathi and Easy taxi. I suggest to have a look at several of them and compare, which would suit you best.
• Ask your hotel to order one: hotels may be helpful with ordering taxis for you at an ok price. We found this to be cheaper than bargaining after we hailed one.

Hiring a Car or a Private Driver

I wouldn’t suggest hiring a car in Nepal, unless you are a very experienced driver and used to driving with extreme caution, where rules are hardly followed. If you are confident in your driving skills, then hiring a car will certainly make your trip more convenient. 

With public transport being almost non existent, it would be easier to hire a private guide and make your own itinerary with them to explore at your own pace. This way, you can follow my itinerary or create your own, at faster or slower pace. I don’t advice joining the day tours, which offer to visit all 7 UNESCO sites in one day. I honestly can’t imagine how would that be possible. 

How to Get from Kathmandu Tribhuvan International Airport to City Center

From the airport to the Kathmandu center you have limited transportation options:

• Bus to Ratna park and walk: There is a government run public bus Sajha Yatayat, which is green in color and provides rides from the airport to Ratna Park. To take the bus, you will have to walk towards left hand side, after getting out of the airport. Ask the bus driver if they go to Ratna park and hop on. You will buy the ticket from the bus driver using cash – it costs little. The Ratna Park is centrally located and you can walk from here to Thamel or to Kathmandu Darbar Square in 10-15 minutes. 
• Taking a taxi: There is a prepaid taxi stand outside the arrivals hall. Alternatively, you can ask your hotel to send you a taxi to pick you up. We asked our hotel to send one, as I read a lot about the taxi drivers outside airport are very pushy and we didn’t want the hassle of it. The hotel sent us the taxi and it was very easy to find the sign with our name on it. The driver asked for the tip in the end. We anyway didn’t have local money then, so couldn’t give, but also later found out that tipping the drivers over what is agreed is not common.
• Ordering transfer service in advance: This is the most convenient and expensive option. You can order a transfer using Welcome Pickups or Gettransfer. 

Where to Stay in Kathmandu

In my opinion the best location to stay for tourists in Kathmandu is Thamel. While more local areas can be interesting and feel more authentic, in Thamel you have easier access to all the restaurants and cafes and you will be centrally located for getting around easier. You also have to worry about food safety slightly less here, as most places cater to tourists and are particularly careful for their reputation. Prices are also more or less ok, but obviously they are far more than in non-touristy parts of the city.

Another popular location is so called Freak Street (yes, you read it right 😀 ). This is a street located near the Durbar Square, where the hippies proffered to live in the 60-70s. Apparently there were a number of hashish shops, which were licensed by the government. It still remains popular for backpackers, but is far less convenient, than Thamel.

Some people also stay near Boudhanath or in Patan, but there are less shops and cafes in these areas and this makes getting around more difficult.

Where we stayed: I selected Kumari Boutique Hotel in Thamel for us to stay for five nights in Kathmandu and it was the best decision. We returned second time for two nights. It simply was a respite in otherwise chaotic city. The hotel was squeaky clean with soft beds and spacious bathroom. The staff were amazing, they helped us with getting taxis, answered our questions about food safety, suggested wearing masks when air quality was bad, etc. The breakfast was also delicious. I 100% recommend this excellent hotel. 

Safety in Kathmandu

We visited, as a couple and we didn’t feel unsafe any moment throughout our trip. We walked around the city quite a lot – not only around the city center, but from monasteries to Pashupatinath, from Thamel to Patan, to Swayambunath, etc, but except for the bad air quality and the lack of sidewalks, nothing bothered us.

Food safety is a huge issue however. Be careful with the food you are eating. We were advised to be especially careful with ice and uncooked food. I selected the places we would eat – most of them in Thamel, so we had no huge issues. 

Air quality in Kathmandu can be very bad at times. You will feel your lungs suffering. We tried to wear masks time after time, but still felt like our throats were scratchy. 

Cafes and Restaurants in Thamel, Kathmandu

I selected a few of the cafes and restaurants, which we would visit in Thamel. Here is what we tried and liked:

• Yala Cafe and Coffee Shop: We liked this place most. We came for coffee as well as food. They provided good service and the prices were reasonable. 
• Blueberry Kitchen: The food here is good and it’s quite a popular restaurant. Actually, we usually didn’t eat fresh vegetables, when we ordered food. They noticed and told us they wash them in clean water and not to be afraid. 
• Himalayan Java Coffee: This cafe does offer food as well, but its mainly coffee-oriented. We liked their coffee and frequented it, when we needed a bit of a break from the busy streets of Kathmandu. 
• Rosemary Kitchen and Coffee Shop: This restaurant has a lovely courtyard, if the weather permits. Their food is nice and they offer good coffee.

If you love Nepalese food and want to learn how to make it, you can join a cooking class in Thamel. 

Other Tips for Visiting Kathmandu

Reservations unnecessary: None of the sights you will be seeing in Kathmandu Valley need to be prebooked. You can easily show up and purchase your tickets on the spot.

People: People generally are very nice and welcoming. The vendors will keep nagging you, but they aren’t as bad as in some other countries. They let you be, when you say no. Just walk away, if you aren’t planning to buy anything.

Check the rest of the tips about money, internet, transport, etc in my general guide for Nepal.

Short Summary of the Kathmandu Itinerary 

Arrival Day

I am not counting this day in the itinerary. If you arrive early in the morning and not after an overnight flight, you may be able to follow this itinerary from first day. Otherwise, just grab the sim card, exchange some money and head to your hotel area.

Kathmandu has surprised us from the airport. The airport is designed in an old style with red bricks. The building definitely stands out.

We had to go through a lengthy visa on arrival process. See the detailed information about this here.

After clearing the immigration, we got out in the crazy crowded place, where a lot of drivers were offering us their taxis. We were glad, we asked the hotel to send a taxi, as otherwise it would be a lot of hassle.

Driving to the city center by taxi already provided the crazy sights of numerous motorcycles, traffic with no rules and hardly any road lights, and the overall poverty.

Day 1 Highlights

Explore Central Kathmandu: Durbar Square, Swayambunath, Garden of Dreams, and Narayanhiti Palace

This post has detailed information on what to see on day 1.

If you have only one day in Kathmandu follow this itinerary.

Alternatively, you could maybe squeeze a half day visit to Bhaktapur or Patan in the morning, then go to Kathmandu Darbar square and Swayambunath. It would be too rushed, but you may prefer it.

Day 2 Highlights

Patan (Lalitpur) and Kirtipur

This post has detailed information on what to see on day 2.

If you have only two days in Kathmandu, follow this itinerary. Alternatively you can replace Kirtipur with Bhaktapur.

Day 3 Highlights

Bhaktapur, Changunarayan, and possibly Nagarkot

This post has detailed information on what to see on day 3.

If you have only three days in Kathmandu, follow this itinerary.

Day 4 Highlights

Monasteries (Kopan, Khawalung Tashi Choeling, Shechen), Boudhanath (and Surrounding Monasteries, Particularly Guru Khakhang), and Pashupatinath

This post has detailed information on what to see on day 4.

If you have only four days in Kathmandu, follow this itinerary.

Additional days

• If you have 3 days to spare, you should definitely consider the 3-day Chitwan Safari tour. 
• Panauti – it is a very cute place for a day trip from central Kathmandu.
• Namo Buddha Temple.
• Kakani area.

See also

My guide to visiting Nepal

My guide to visiting South Korea

My guide to visiting Japan